It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. such high fuel pressure. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. Save Share. I will turn it up some. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. Only show this user . Nice to meet you. Good luck! And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. I appreciate everything you are saying. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. 2. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. Holley have given a new unit. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. The window you saw in the image above pops up. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. Capability Range: Advanced Cl. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. 1. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. Hello. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. This is more of a bit of a reality check. It runs perfectly fine other wise. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. Part# 538-13. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI Possibly cap, rotor, coil? The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. I will let you know what the results are. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. What could be the cause? Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. to. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. The throttle plates are misaligned. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. I believe because the TPS is not registering. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. Hello Chris. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? The distributor was loose. Try it! Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. When I shut it off then start it Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! Is this an issue to worry about? There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. Thanks for the great question! The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. Thanks so much for reading! Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot.